ALONG THE LORD CURZON'S TRAIL
Nanda devi |
No idea whatsoever, how long could we be able to continue when we started trekking in our 2nd innings after retirement. Did not have any specific plan before hand like this far and no further. Such is a place called Himalaya that once you are overwhelmed by its bounty of beauties , you fall in a loop. And so the magic of Himalaya has called us again and we assembled in Rishikesh by the evening of 7th October last year to accomplish our 3rd year's trekking program - Kuari pass. Lord curzon, in the year 1905, had travelled this route and so the trekking route is also called as Lord Curzon's trail. We planned our return journey in a way so that we may visit two other very common names in trekking circuit Tunganath & Deoriatal. This year's preparation too was started almost at the beginning of 2017. Last year's experience with our Tour operator was good , so was the dealings of his team. This made our options for searching a suitable trekking destination limited to Garhwal Himalayas. During early eighties, when we trekked in and around Garhwal & Kumaun areas, this particular trekking route was somehow missed. After going through the blogs on Kuari pass we realised that it would be one of our memorable trek.
And the journey begins :
Rishikesh to Auli : by road ; distance 265 km
Debaprayag |
Five from Kolkata and three from Hyderabad assembled on 7th evening at Rishikesh. Our staying arrangement was made in Tourist Guest House at Muni-ki-reti, a place once frequented by mountain lovers and pilgrims in large numbers. The small bus stand was situated in a vast land with the picturesque Sibalik Mountain range in the background. It was the story of seventies. Bus stand is still there but it is now almost the concrete jungle with shops and hotels. Our hotel was on the route Rishikeh to Badrinath. On the evening itself one very young fellow named Tinku joined us. He was sent by Gagandeep to assist us. Totally inexperienced and had no acquaintance with the route. First day’s journey was upto Auli. A fairly long journey of about 265 km.We started early in the morning so that we could reach Auli by afternoon. On the way we passed through Debprayag, Srinagar, Rudraprayag, Chamoli, Karnaprayag to name a few.
Rudraprayag |
River Alakananda |
Once all these places were small but beautiful. But now these places have grown to such an extent that even in the month of October, while travelling, we had faced fairly warm weather as we normally encounter in Metros. Post monsoon colour of water of the river Alakananda was a delightful sight. But lost the youthfulness and turbulence, as often found in a mountain river, due to construction of Dam in places in the upstream.
River Alakananda |
At 4 pm, we reached Joshimath. There our Tour Guide, Sanjay Sati joined us. Another an hour journey took us to Auli . Staying arrangement was made in Auli Ski resort, one of best accommodation in Auli. But our booking was in Dormitory of the resort. Not only was it quite high above but the condition of the rooms also made us disappointed. We expressed our displeasure, the way we could. The role of guide under the circumstances was not at all encouraging.So first encounter with Sanjay was not good enough. It was almost late afternoon. Started feeling bite of cold slowly. Came out into the fore ground of dormitory and saw colourful display of setting sun rays over the peaks. So started our first photo session . From Auli a good view of many peaks, Nandadevi in particular are available.
From Auli |
From Auli |
From Auli |
From Auli |
2nd day – Auli to Gorson Bugiyal
Distance : 5 km. Altitude : 10500 ft Night stay at Tented accommodation at Gorson Bugiyal
Morning started with sadness as the news was, Jay (read Joy) would not be amongst us in the 1st phase of trekking. Due to his long journey, first from LA to Hyderabad and then Hyderabad to Dehradun via Delhi a back pain developed and hence declared himself unfit. Most unfortunate.
Auli |
view from Upper Auli |
Our 2nd day's journey was the 1st day's trekking from Auli to Gorson Bugiyal (means meadows or pasture land). Auli is the famous ski resort centre and now has become internationally famous. Auli is spread over different altitude. We took the 1st flight in an open roap way . It was something around 800 meter journey. New experience and ride was enjoyable, a nice panoramic view of auli and surroundings was available.
Artificial lake at Auli |
View from Upper Auli |
Within few minutes we reached upper Auli and our trekking started . A short stretch of 5 kms for the 1st day. From upper Auli initial journey was through a terrain of a hill. Clear view of the peaks and the meadows down below
Entering golden oak forest |
Forest trail |
A temple just before the Bugiyal |
Gorson Bugiyal |
made the journey very enjoyable. Bright, shiny view of the artificial lake of Auli was with us till we entered into jungle of golden oak forest. Beautiful jungle trail. Nice to watch the light and shade designs decorating the entire jungle trail. An hour after, a clearance announced the beginning of Gorson Bugiyal.
Gorson Bugiyal |
Gorson bugiyal; Nanda devi in Background |
Though our campsite was at the beginning of the bugiyal , but we went till we reached highest point i.e Gorson top from where we had the 180 degree view of different snow peaks and also to get acclimatised in the process. Stayed there for almost half an hour, enjoyed the view. No word is sufficient to describe what we saw.
Trisul and Nandaghunti |
Hati and Ghora peak |
At Gorson top |
Dronagiri and Nanda devi |
Dronagiri |
Gorson Camp site |
Took photographs as many as we could and got down again at the campsite surrounded by jungle of golden Oak trees. Within few minutes lunch was served.
Lunch session at Gorson bugiyal camp site |
Lazily we spent the rest of the day in the campsite. Darkness and severity of cold forced us to move into the confines of the tent. Inside the tent also our gossip session continued . At 7 p.m dinner was served inside the tent itself. Though we were not pleased with the cold behaviour of our guide but his support staffs were excellent, so was the culinary skills of the cook. After dinner, a brief outing was needed. A glance at the sky made all of us awed. So far, but looked so near, countless stars densely located, seen nowhere unless one is in such a place. But again, could not enjoy the sight for a long time because of biting cold.
3rd day : Gorson Bugiyal to Tali
Distance : 8 km; Altitude: 11000 ft Night halt in tent at Tali
From Gorson Bugiyal our next destination was Tali. Distance was a bit longer, 8-10 km. The 1st phase was the same as we went the day before for Gorson top.
Gorson Bugiyal |
Gorson Bugiyal |
Instead of going to the top we had to traverse along the mountain slope which gradually became narrower but it did not bother much as on many ocassions earlier we had faced much tougher trails. The same mesmerising view of snow peaks came into the fore and then gradually moved behind.
Pravin- our constant companion |
Nilkanth |
View on the way to Tali
|
Also gliding with us |
View on the way to Tali |
Tali Lake |
For the major portion of our journey the view was with us. First came Tali lake. Though water source was there , campsite was ahead of the place as water of the lake is said to be polluted.
Again the campsite in Tali was in a small clearance within the jungle beside a seemingly perennial water source. But here in Tali, the jungle was almost imposing the campsite so everyone was warned by the guide that one should not go outside the tent alone for any requirement at night.
Tali camp site |
During these couple of days we felt a marked difference from the previous experience in our younger days. It was regarding human waste management. In all the camping site, make-shift loos were made and the entire arrangement was eco-friendly.
4th day : Tali to Kuari pass and then back to khullara camping site.
Distance : 12 km Altitude : 11000 ft Night halt in tent at Khullara
Tali to Kuary pass |
Tali to Kuary pass |
Our 3rd day's was the longest trek in this program. It was from Tali to Kuari pass and then to get down at Khullara covering a distance of around 12 km. Most part of the trek up to a junction called Gailgarh where the way down to khullara camp site separates, was steep. The ascent was almost 2000 ft from the Tali campsite and the trail was as usual through jungle and then undulating grass land with unhindered view of surroundings.
Tali to Kuary pass |
Dronagiri |
View on the way to Gailgarh |
Trekking at that altitude (over 10000 ft) was tiring and exhausting and we are no more in our heyday of trekking. We reached Gailgarh at mid-day.
Gailgarh |
Still Kuari pass was almost one and half hours' journey. At that moment we were a bit hesitant, whether should we proceed as cloud started engulfing the surroundings and we all felt little bit tired also which led us to think the remaining path to be insurmountable. At this juncture two of our key members, Vishwanath and Tarun decided not to proceed towards pass, instead they preferred to get down to Khullara camp site. Here the role of our tour guide Sanjay Sati was pathetic. Not only he was indifferent about the decision of returning of two of members, his body language was totally discouraging in the decision of rest five of us to proceed.
But as always happened in the past, our positive mind frame helped us to reach Kuari pass at about 1-20 P.m.Spent 15-20 mins at the pass, had our packed lunch and returned at the Khullara camp just after 3 P.M. Our goal was accomplished but by the time we reached the pass, there was not much to see because of thick cloud cover.
Kuari pass |
5th day : Khullara to Dhak
Distance : 10 km. Night stay at Joshimath
Khullara camp site |
Last day's trekking for Kuari pass was about 10KM. It was from Khullara to Dhak, a place connected by road with Joshimath. Before I go to the day's journey, one thing I would like to share that Khullara is the best camping site. It is a sprawling grassy land which can accommodate 2-3 football grounds. The site is wide open to have a clear view of snow peaks in the distant horizon almost covering an angle more than 180 degree. So on the 4th day morning we witnessed the mesmerising view of gradual change of colour over snow peaks in the horizon as dawn set in and sun rays started falling in.
View from Khullara camp site |
View from Khullara camp site |
View from Khullara camp site |
Nilkantha |
View from Khullara camp site |
The whole ambiance was changing in every moments. Most of us became busy in capturing moments so as to rewind the unforgettable memories again and again with the vein attempt to recreate the situation.
View from Khullara camp site |
View from Khullara camp site |
Khullara camp site |
After a while we started our trekking. It was a very steep descend all along. No respite for our already worn out legs (knees in particular) after the last three days trekking. The trail was all along through
forest area.
Khullara to Dhak |
.
Hardly had time to have a glance at the surroundings. Had to be attentive in every footstep as always getting down in mountain is more risky. Still, was able to capture some moments of our last day's journey.
Khullara to Dhak |
Khullara to Dhak |
Khullara to Dhak |
Last few 2-3 Kms was through the village road but for any unexplained reason we were forced to take short-cuts by our guide( may be they were in a hurry to get back their home). But in the process we had to face the hazards of slipping all through the trail. It was our good luck that nobody suffered any injury.
At last we reached |
We reached DhaK at about 3 pm, thereafter it was only 12 km. journey by road to Joshimath.There Jay was eagerly waiting for us. He also enjoyed his stay at Joshimath by visting Badrinath, Mana and travelling upper Auli by cable car etc. In joshimath we stayed in a 8-bedded dormitory, situated in 5th floor of Nanda devi expedition Hostel. So after a strenuous 4 days trek we had to again take the ordeal of going up all the way to 5th floor by stairs only to have a night stay. As usual Sanjay vanished from the scenario to escape from our wrath. He again reappeared on the following morning to see us off for our next part of our journey Tunganath and Deoriatal. Leaving aside the inhospitable behaviour of Sanjay, we all enjoyed the trekking as the route has got most of the essences of a good trekking route - beautiful bugiyal, unhindered view of peaks all through, trails through forest etc. So 1st phase of our trekking ended with a very satisfying note.
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