Tales from Himachal: Losar, setback and coming back

Road to Losar
                                               Road to Losar
So far our journey had been absolutely delightful and Chevy also did a fabulous job on those perilous roads... Complacency surrounded us and we were looking forward to cross over Kunzum… visit Chandra Tal and then cross over Rohtang to reach Manali comfortably… left early in the morning to Losar which is some 58 km west of Kaza and also considered as western entrance to Spiti Valley.. Road to Losar passes through some breathtaking patches of precipitous ravines where any sound echoes three times..  In the afternoon, we touched down to Losar and enjoyed spicy maggy on a daba before police check post….

Set on the bank of Losar river (aka Spiti river), Losar is a picturesque hamlet adorned with the carpet of flowers on the pastures and ranches. Losar offers basic tourist facilities yet awaiting attention on tourist trail. While I was registering the chavy on Losar check post, guard thoroughly looked the ground clearance space of the car and displayed suspicion. Though he has not warned us while we were taking leave from Losar towards Kunzum but he doubted. We were saddened leaving Spiti but excited about Lahaul at the same time.
Prayer flags on the river before losar
                                  Prayer flags on the river before losar
After few kilometers from Losar, a jeep driver stopped us and asked our plans. He smirked when we disclosed the idea of crossing over Kunzum and Rohtang and drive all the way to Manali. He concurred that we can make to Manali but our vehicle can’t go through with such a low ground clearance. Beyond Batal, flash floods are high in some of the stretches and impossible to cross over in this vehicle. Rocks underneath can damage it irrecoverable state….He passed by and we inquired with other fellow drivers…they all agreed to the former inputs and suggested us to follow the road in reverse.. Some suggested scary plans of towing the vehicle with rope etc… After hours of brain storming and weighing all the possibilities, we took a heart-wrenching decision of going back to Shimla via Kinnaur.
An Evening at Spiti
                                             An Evening at Spiti
Coming back and Aftermath:
Set amidst sullen helplessness, we returned back to Kaza from Losar and left very early in the morning so that we can reach Rampur before the dusk. Missing Chandra-Tal was a major setback but will remain a prime inspiration to revisit the mountain of the Gods. Realization of receding back to the plains of Northern India was quite distressing.  By the time we reached back to Delhi (after 2 days of continuous driving), discordance within was quite evident…

Sound of the silence turned to the noise of vehicles…. Refreshing fragrance of flowering meadows turned to the pungent smell of cities…Inhospitable barren land turned to the dumping ground for billions…exalted faces turned to the restless souls….… Welcome to the world where we love organic farming of plastic fruits…. Smiling absently….

Tales from Himachal: Complete Series (In Chronological order)

Tales from Himachal: Beyond Narkanda to Satluj River

Tales from Himachal: Bhimakali Temple Sarahan

Tales from Himachal: Touching upon Sangla, Baspa Valley

Tales from Himachal: Chitkul, last Village of Baspa Valley

Tales from Himachal: Kalpa, Winter home of Lord Shiva

Tales from Himachal: Road to Tibet, Shipki La

Tales from Himachal: Nako, Overlooking Spiti from the top

Tales from Himachal: Kaurik and Gue, Good bye Kinnaur

Tales from Himachal: Tabo, Confronting the darkness within

Tales from Himachal: Dhankar, virtually falling on the head

Tales from Himachal: Kaza, beyond my foolish speculations

Tales from Himachal: Langza, Pastures of Prehistoric life

Tales from Himachal: Komic, Destination which visits you

Tales from Himachal: Key Monastery and Kibber Village

Tales from Himachal: Losar, setback and coming back


Click to read a very useful & comprehensive article about this circle

What an amazing series of

What an amazing series of writeups! I went through the entire series on Spiti on this blog and all I can say is thank God that there is a blog this wellwritten. :) 

I am planning to go for the following places this september :

Kalka - Narkhanda - Sangla - Chitkul - Kalpa- Nako Lake - Changgo - Tabo - Kaza - Chandra Taal - Rohtang Pass - Manali.

Can your experienced eyes help me find what I am missing here that would make it a better trip within a 8 days time?


i think 8 days are not enough

i think 8 days are not enough to cover all. you can do it using private car but would be very taxing. there is a lot which you can visit such as pin valley, Langza, Komic, Dhankar.

hi, I am Aritra from


I am Aritra from Kolkata

Iam planning to visit the HP Tribal Circuit in mid to end of september, 2016 with my wife. I am low on budget and my places of interest are SHIMLA - SARAHAN - SANGLA - CHITKUL – KALPA – NAKO - TABO - KAZA – KEY MONASTERY - LOSAR - KUNZUM - MANALI - Kullu my questoins are.

1. I know that it is not the ideal time, but is it very difficult in september?

2. Is the public transport/Shared vehicle reliable?

3. Is there any sightseeing option by local cabs/jeeps in sangla/sarhan, rekongpeo, kaza etc.(so that i can take HRTC Bus Trasnport to the main spots)?

4. would it be possible to cover this in 10 days(excluding shimla)?

5. what would be the approx costing by private vehicle(only for the journey) for the whole circuit?

waiting for your reply.....any rectifications are invited.......

1) September is indeed one of

1) September is indeed one of the best months to travel. It is ideal in all the apsects.

2) Yes, public transport is available but very infrequent and thin. only 1-2 buses/shared jeeps connecting two villages

3) Not as such.. these towns itself are key destinations.. walk around. Near Kaza, there are many places for day trips using private taxi.

4) 10 days using public transport will be very hectic. keep more days.

5) would be quite expensive in my opinion, they charge per day basis mostly. better to inquire in Shimla once you are there.

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