Chittorgarh: The largest fort of India

This is your last chance Vishnu. After this, there is no turning back. You hit the girl in Red - the story ends, you wake up in your bed and believe whatever you want to believe. You hit the girl in Yellow - you stay in Wonderland…. I was witnessing one of the rarest events in which I was accompanied with fairer sex in the same compartment of a train... and not just one but two gorgeous girls…. It took me a while to assess the situation and drafting the first version of action plan… Unlike other journeys, I forgot to carry travel books, guides those caught attention of curious preys… my camera was the only powerful weapon from my artillery…. Following the basic rule of attraction, I ignored the fairer sex in the beginning and boarded my berth….started scribbling…. After sharing couple of glances with both of the preys, I decided to stick with the yellow one who was looking nerd in those glasses… Combination of glasses and straight hairs won the half battle for yellow girl and the remaining half was settled when she smiled washing out the dilemma within me… I was floored all over again…

                                  Chittorgarh City from Chittorgarh fort
Oh Lord….I forgot to tell you guys that I was traveling to Chittorgarh and it is a travel blog not an eastside story… anyway, we both kept sharing glances… ordered our dinner together… had a very brief chit chat… acknowledged each other through smirking… expressions were commuting in that wordless compartment…but then like every other traveler’s tale, the cruel train reached at Chittorgarh early in the morning after 12 sleepless hours and we parted away even without saying good bye….  If you are reading this, then just want to tell you that I sincerely fell for you…

                                 Ruins and Relics of Chittorgarh Fort
After arriving Chittorgarh early in the morning, I started the pursuit for an accommodation. Most of these budget hotels lie close to Chittorgarh bus stand. I lodged into a hotel (300 INR) very close to bus stand and surrendered myself to the sleep in a hope of getting over with the active thoughts about “Girl in yellow”…

* Catch a shared auto from railway station to bus stand (5 INR).

                                     Kirti Stambha Chittorgarh
I was quite like Gregor Samsa of “The Metamorphosis” when I was struggling to break free from the deep sleep… was I sedated?.. I guess not… I think sleepless night made me extremely somnolent….so after brushing my teeth, taking a cold shower and eating spicy paratha as break-fast, I put my first step as a traveler in Chittorgarh…  Chittorgarh is not as popular as other destinations in Rajasthan and does not fall on typical tourist trail…Generally it is included as a short trip from Udaipur or Bundi. However Chittorgarh is very well connected with all the towns of Rajasthan and India.

                                      Padmini Palace Chittorgarh

                                View of Chittorgarh fort from Fatta Haveli

Chittorgarh is known for the massive fortress which sits atop a hill and also touted as the largest fort of Asia. There are many attractions inside the fortress and a detailed trip to all sites takes your entire day. I took a share auto to Fort road (5 INR) and then took another shared auto (10 INR) which plied uphill till the entrance of chittorgarh fort. There are options of hiring motorbike or autos for your entire trip to chittorgarh fort complex. Fort complex is really huge and all important sites lie in the periphery of 13 km that’s why it’s recommended to hire a private transport to keep it a leisurely and comfortable tour.  Despite of knowing all these particulars, I choose to walk 13 km visiting all the ruins, relics, temples, shrines, pillars, step wells etc just for maintaining highest level of freedom. Here goes the detailed write up about Chittorgarh fort and its splendid attractions.
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                                      Satbis Deori Group of Jain Temples

Chittorgarh, the ancient chitrakoot, was the capital of mewar and the center of Rajput policy from 7th century to mid 16th century A.D. Chittorgarh fort, covering an estimate of 700 acres was built by Chitrangad of the Moris in 7th century A.D and later on, Maharana Kumbha (A.D 1433-68) made extensive additions and alterations. It has been a witness to the rule of several dynasties such as Moris (Mauryas)(7-8 the century A.D), Pratiharas (9th century A.D), Paramaras (10-11th Century A.D), Solankis (12th century A.D) followed by Guhilots and Sidodias. During its long history, the fort suffered three sacks- the first in A.D 1303 by Ala-ud-Din-Khilji, the second in A.D 1535 by Bahadur Shah of Gujarat and the third by Akbar in A.D 1567 and each time, the "Jauhar" was performed when women and children immolated themselves on a huge funeral pyre which asserted the heroic spirit of the Rajputs. Thereafter, the capital of Mewar was moved to Udaipur. The eventful history of Chittorgarh and its rich monumental heritage suggest the importance of the royal seat of Mewar. The magnificent monuments viz kumbha palace, padmini palace, ratan singh palace victory tower, jain kirtti stambha, temples of kalika mata, kumbhaswamin,samadhisvar,satbis deori, adbhutnath, kshemankari, parshvanth, shrinagar chauri, jatashankar, havelis of jaimal-fatta and bhamashah, gaumukha kund, water reservoirs, chhatris, gateways, etc are fine example of Rajput architecture.

Download the PDF version of Chittorgarh Fort map

Entrance fee: 5 INR (Indian), 100 INR (Foreigner), 25 INR (Photography & Videography)

                                         Kumbha Palace in Chittorgarh Fort
Kumbha palace:
This magnificent palace provided faint glimpses of pristine glory of typical domestic architecture of the Rajputs, Maharana Kumbha (AD 1433-68) made several additions and alterations in the earlier palace. The palace is approached through two gateways to the east- Badi pol and Tripolia. These gates lead into open space to the south of the palace and to darikhana. A small doorway on the back of darikhana gives access to main apartments, the Surya Gokhra, Zanana Mahal, Kanwar Pade ka Mahal, other residential structures and open courts. Built of dressed stones, the exterior walls have decorations include sculptured bands serving as stringcourse and large flower head bosses.

                                                    Sringar Chauri
Sringar Chauri:
The inscription of the pillar near the western door of the temple mentions that velaka, the son of kola, the treasurer of the maharana Kumbha, built this temple and dedicated it to the santinatha in A.D 1448 and that it was consecrated by jina sagara suri. The temple which was later on covered by the massive wall built by Banbir, is now kept open.

                                            Fatehprakash palace
Government Museum Chittorgarh (Fatehprakash-Palace):
Visiting hours: 9:45 AM to 5:15 PM (Closed on every Monday)
Entrance fee: Indian Nationals (5 INR), Foreigners (50 INR), Indian Students (2 INR, free on Friday).

Fatehprakash-Palace was built by Maharana Fateh singh (1884-1930) of Mewar. In 1968 Sate Government of Rajasthan established government, museum under archaeology and museum department.

This place is double storied and rectangular in shape with north facing main entrance. There are four domes on the four corners of the palace and they are visible from a distance of around 5-6 Kilometers and each pillar is decorated with a golden coated vase on it.

In the palace Bel-Butas and bird figures are engraved on the carving colourful glass which has been done by the artists of Bassi in Chittorgarh District On the upper story the wooden lattice windows have been constructed keeping I view the parda system (veil system) in such a manner that the person inside can view outside but the outsider cannot look inside. In the middle of the pool the statue of Maharana Fatehsingh is situated.

Ancient stone icons (Statue), weapons, portraits and models related to art and culture of mewar and full size portraits of legends of Mewar are exhibited in the museum. Weapon room, archaeology and sculpture room painting room and gun room are there in the long gallery of the museum. Besides this photographs of ancient temples and monuments of Chittorgarh fort are also displayed in the diaramaz gallery

                                                  Kirti Stambha
Kirti Stambha:
Dedicated to Adinatha, the first Jaina Tirthankara, this elegant Stambha was built by Shreshti Jija and Punyasing of Bagherwal clan in 1301 A.D. This six storied tower (24.5 m high) stands on a square platform. A central staircase winds up a square shaft through six stories to a small pavilion of elegant design, the roof of which rests on twelve columns. Large standing images of Tirthankara are placed in four niches on the lowest story. Hundreds of small figures are carved on the upper stories. Standing next to the tower is 14th century Jaina temple. Raised on high Jagati, it comprises of a sanctum and a mandapa. Its walls are beautifully carved.

                                           Padmini Palace and Kund
Padmini Palace:
This palace is of immense historical importance in the history of Mewar. Associated with Rani Padmini, this beautiful building stands in the northern margin of the Padmini Lake, it is said that here Rana Ratan Singh showed a glimpse of legendary beauty of his wife padmini to Ala-ud-din-Khilji through a mirror. After which, Ala-Ud-Din-Khilji went to the extent of ravaging chittor in order to possess her. In the middle of the lake there is a three storyed structure which arched openings locally known as Jal Mahal.

                                                 Kalika Mata Temple
Kalika Mata Temple: 
The Kalika Mata temple was built in the 8^th century by the kings of Guhil dynasty. I is believed that originally it was a Sun temple which was severely damaged during Mughal invasion and Kalika Mata idol was consecrated later. There is also a tank in front of this temple known as the Surya Kund.

                                       Samadhisvara temple Chittorgarh
Samadhisvara Temple:
Dedicated to Siva, this temple was built by Bhoja paramara in the middle of the 11th century A.D. It was renovated by Mokal in 1428 A.D. It consists of a garbhangriha, an antarala and a mandapa with three porticos on its north, south and West. The colossal image of Trimurti Siva is enshrined in the sanctum. The interior and exterior of the temple is elaborately carved with figures of Gods and Goddesses and other decorations. Besides, there are several smaller shrines of early date. To the south of it, a long staircase descends to the sacred Gaumukha. Kumarapala, the Chalukyan ruler of Gujarat, put up an inscription in the western wall to the south of the main entrance. When he visited the temple soon after conquering Arana Raja, the chauhan ruler of Ajmer in A.D 1150

                                           Vijaya Stambha Chittorgarh
Vijay Stambh:
Vijay Stambh or the Victory Tower built by Maharana Kumbha in 1448 A.D is one of the important monuments which no visitor can overlook. This nine-storey structure illustrates the architectural style of ancient India. It has quite edifying inscriptions of Hindu gods and goddesses from Puranas and Mahabharata. The edifice commemorates Maharana Kumbha's victory over Sultan Mahmood of Malwa whom he kept as a prisoner in Chittorgarh in 1437.

                                          Gaumukh Kund Chittorgarh
Gaumukh Kund:
Of much interest to the tourists inclined in geology is the Gomukh Kund where stream of translucent water flows permanently through a rocky outlet in the shape of cow-mouth. Devotees from all over the country come here for a holy bath. North of Gomukh is a Jain temple where a consecrated idol has an inscription in Kannada script which suggests the idol was brought from Karnataka. The idol also has the Devnagri script of 1468 AD.s

South of Gomukh in a bed of rocks is the ruins of the palaces of Jaimal and Patta who lost their lives in defense of the fort fighting against Akbar. There is a water reservoir here on the bank of which are the Buddhist pillars suggesting the existence of Buddhist temples during the Mauryan period.

                                            Kumbhaswamin temple
Kumbhaswamin Temple:
Originally dedicated to Varaha, this temple was renovated by Maharana Kumbha (A.D 1433-68). Raised on high plinth it comprises of a Sanctum, a mandapa, a portico and an open pradakshinapath. The Sanctum appears to be original and shows bold podium mouldings decorated with sculptured niches on the projections. The roof of the mandapa is in the form of pyramid whsile the sanctum is crowned by tall Sikhara. The interior of mandapa is composed of twenty pillars. The image of Varaha is in the principle niche in the back of the shrine. In front of the temple is an image of Garuda under a canopy supported on four pillars. On the south, there is another smaller shrine called Meera-Mandir. In front of this is a four-pillared chhatri, said to have been built in the memory of her Guru.

Naulakha Bhandar:
Naulakha Bhandar meaning nine lakh treasuries has vaulted chambers in which money necessary for current expenditure was kept.

                                           Banvir's wall Chittorgarh
Banvir's Wall:
Banvir (A.D 1535-40), the son of Prithviraj usurped the throne after attempting to kill Udai Singh. He built this inner citadel wall which remained incomplete when he was ousted by Udai Singh in A.D 1540

                                        Bhamashah Palace Chittorgarh

Bhama Shah Palace: lying bit outside of main fort, this palace is now just a ruin lost under the bushes. There a temple in the park opposite to Bhama Shah Palace.
 

Mrigvan (Forest Sanctuary): Situated at the extreme end of Chittorgarh fort, this green patch of land is occupied by Forest department and known as Mrigvan. The sanctuary does not comprise ruins or monuments but certainly a perfect place to escape from blistering sun during summers. If up for a long walk, then it’s a secluded trail in the midst of dry forest. There are some beautiful ponds (Bowris) inside the sanctuary.

Visiting hours: 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM (Monday closed)
Entrance fee: Indian (5 INR), Indian Student (2 INR), Foreigner (20 INR), Two wheelers (5 INR), Four wheelers (25 INR)

                                            Satbis Deori Jain temples
Satbis Deori: Group of 27 Jain temples which lies opposite to Kumbhaswamin Temple.

Courtesy: ARCHEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF INDIA, JAIPUR CIRCLE
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So after 6 hours of long walk under the unbearable sun, drinking 4-5 liters of water and lime, taking siesta in the shed of bushes,  I was very much content with a day well spent in the midst of remarkable ruins, relics, temples, palaces of archeological importance. Apart from splendid architectures, Chittorgarh fort also offers a less explored side of Rajasthan and indeed the core of this majestic state. Despite of scorching heat of Rajasthan, the deserted terrain was still charming with its perpetual serenity. I was tired and hungry so I descended back to the main town of Chittorgarh and headed further to Sanwariaji Temple which lies some 40 km away from Chittorgarh on Udaipur Highway. There are frequent autos/busses from Udaipur circle and takes around an hour to reach there.  Busses will drop you to the main highway (NH-76, Bhadsoda) from there Sanwariaji Temple is another 7 km and you will get irregular private busses/shared autos on this route. This remarkable temple is still under construction and dedicated to Lord Krishna. Sanwariaji Temple is highly reverent and attracts thousands of devotees every year. By the time I made back to Chittorgarh, long shadows of evening became night and I was tired enough not for getting a deep thoughtless sleep. Prior to that, I had a fulfilling Thali at Ashirvad garden near railway station and inquired about the early morning bus to Bundi… Bundi, another lost town settled in the arid landscape of Rajasthan and my next delight…

                                       Fatta Haveli Chittorgarh

                                                                  Kumbha Palace