Keralan Odyssey: Lost in the streets of Mattancherry, Kochi

                                              Cherai beach near Cochin
Situated at Vypeen Island, Cherai beach was the prime destination for the next day. Jetty station for Vypeen Island is just in front of Fort Kochi bus stand. I caught one of the frequent running ferries to Vypeen Island (3 INR, 10 minutes) which dropped me near Vypeen bus stand. Cherai town is 25 km from Vypeen bus stand and well connected with private busses (13 INR, 1 hour). Cherai beach is another 3 km towards coast from the town which can be reached by an auto (30 INR). I would rather recommend taking a walk from the town towards Cherai beach. The road passes through scenic backwater ways in the backdrop of Chinese fishing nets and wide paddy fields. There is also a picturesque resort at Cherai beach which faces sea and lazy backwaters at the same time.

                                       Cherai Beach resort fronting backwaters
Cherai beach certainly could not meet my expectations when talking about long stretch of palm fringed white sand for which it is touted. It is just another long stretch of undeveloped sand (Which is not white) with concrete promenade till some distance. However Cherai beach is now catching up as another major beach destination of Kerala with many beach cottages, restaurants coming up on beach front. Other than Cherai beach resort, there are some budget accommodation options available at beach front. If not for beach line, Cherai will certain entice you for its lazy backwaters lying besides the ocean. I preferred strolling along the bridges over the intricate network of estuaries, lagoons and canals formed by placid backwaters near Cherai beach. If you heading north then Cherai backwaters are your last chance to appreciate unique wetlands of Kerala.

                                           Backwater near Cherai beach
I followed the same route in reverse (Cherai beach-Cherai town-Vypeen-Kochi) and hit back fort Kochi. A cold shower was on the card after negotiating with rising humidity of coastline. After checking out from hotel, I hired an auto to Mattancherry palace (Also known as Dutch palace) which is some 4-5 km (30 INR) from fort Kochi.

                                      Dutch Palace and an old temple Cochin
Mattancherry palace, Kochi, District: Ernakulam

During 15th century AD the Kochi Royal family shifted their capital from Mahodayapuram to Kochi as a precaution against the attacks of Zamorin of Kozhikode. The Portuguese who landed here were permitted by the rulers of Kochi to build factories in Kochi for the trade activities and in return sought military assistance against Zamorin of Kozhikode. Later on, the Kochi Rajas become the vassals of Portuguese. Subsequently the Dutch came and they occupied Mattancherry in 1663 AD.

                                Mattancherry Palace and Pardesi Synagogue
In 1752 AD the Travancore rulers over run the Kochi and the Raja of Kochi entered into a treaty with the Travancore. Tippu Sultan's invasion of Malabar in 1789 AD made Kochi Raja as his tributary, but the English defeated Tippu Sultan and took control of Malabar and Kochi. The state was merged with Indian Union soon after the independence. The Mattancherry palace was built by the Portuguese In 1555 AD for Raja Vira Kerala Varma (1537-65 AD), as a gesture of their cordiality. It was subsequently repaired by the Dutch who succeeded the Portuguese and had since then called the Dutch Palace. The nature of its arches and the generous proportions of its chambers represent features of European architecture. The palace Is constructed in the form of a Nalukettu (quadrilateral structure). But, its indigenous features are marked by wooden coffered ceilings and mezzanine flower arrangements. The central courtyard enshrines the Pazhayannur Bhagavati, the patron deity of the Kochi Royal family. The main rooms in this palace are the palliarai or bed chamber (Ramayana room), the coronation hall, Kovinithalam (staircase room), and the ladies' chamber .The palliarai and ladies' chamber especially carry on all their four walls the magnificent mural paintings, as many as fifty seven of them, covering a total wall area of nearly 1000sq.ft.They had been added in three phases, from the beginning of 17th century AD to the end of 18th century AD.
 

The themes depict here are mainly religious in nature. For the drawing of the Murals only natural colors were used. The complete story of Ramayana has been depicted in seven panels on the walls of the Palliarai (Bed chamber). Paintings of Durga, Ganapathi, Vishnu as Aadimurthl, Bhuthamatha, Rama Pattabhishekam etc are also seen. The Mural paintings such as Krishnaleela, Siva Parvathi and Mohini were in the ladles' chamber. The ladies' chamber consists of unfinished paintings and line drawings. They are mainly the scenes from Kumarasambhavam and Parvathiparinayam. There is a rare representation of Tippu Sultan in out line.
 

The site is a Centrally Protected Monument under the control of Archeological Survey of India since 1951. Presently Archeological Museum is housed In the Palace.

Visiting Hours: 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM (Friday Holiday)

                                            Rear view Pardesi Synagogue

Pardesi synagogue is another famous historical building bordering the premises of Mattancherry palace. Synagogue lies some 200 meter away from the palace in the interior of Jew town. Unfortunately the day I visited synagogue was a jewish holiday and Synagogue was closed for visitors.
 

Paradesi Synagogue:
The Paradesi synagogue was built in 1568 A.D by descendants of Spanish, Dutch and other European Jews. It has served as a functioning synagogue through-out the centuries, and preserves a unique record of Jewish presence in India. The clock tower was added later in 1760. After conservation will complete, it will become the public symbol of synagogue once again. Presently it is maintained by World monuments fund.

 

Visiting hours: 10 AM to 1:00 PM & 3:00 PM to 5:00 PM (Closed on Fridays, Saturdays and Jewish holidays)

Other Instructions:
* Dress Modestly
* Handbags, Luggage and Cameras are not allowed inside the synagogue premises.

                                            Jew Town market, Mattancherry

Tourism Police museum is another upcoming attraction in Jew town but most of tourists relinquish their entire attention to irresistible art galleries and emporiums selling a wide range antiques, handicrafts, souvenirs weighing from few grams stones to hundred kilos of wooden boats. It’s an overwhelming spree in the deepest ocean of antiques where every inch has been embellished with an everlasting passion. A leisure walk through the Jew town tops the list of must-do things while in Cochin.

                                Spice Market Jew Town Mattancherry, Cochin
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* If you want to buy antiques, handicrafts or souvenirs from Kerala, Jew Town Mattancherry is the best deal.  There are even large banana boats on sell.
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                                               Kochi Harbor

Even if facing tight budget situation, you will end up returning back with some packets of spices at least. After navigating through some emporiums on main-street, I headed a bit off route and visited Jew cemetery which is closed for tourists. Restaurants are a bit expensive on this side of the town but still a coffee will return back its investment. I could have hired another auto to fort Kochi for collecting my backpack, but I preferred to wait for the ferry just for getting another closer look of the harbor and shipyard… in a desire to sketch your image once again from those memories receded in misty haze…. And in a way, I could…. But no matter how hard I try, I could stay in state of togetherness for long and could not stop you retreating back to limbo…
 

With the frowning realization, I picked up my stuff and headed to Ernakulam bus stand for getting ride further north.

                                                                Kochi Shipyard

 

 

 

Keralan Odyssey: The Complete Series (In Chronological Order)

Keralan Odyssey: Existentialism at Kovalam

 

Keralan Odyssey: Padmanabhapuram Palace

Keralan Odyssey: Trivandrum is the Capital

Keralan Odyssey: Ascetism at beach Varkala

Keralan Odyssey: Varkala-Kappil beach walk

Keralan Odyssey: Whispering memories in Alleppey

Keralan Odyssey: Backwaters of Kuttanad

Keralan Odyssey: Cloud gazing in Munnar

Keralan Odyssey: Chasing Elephants in Anakulam

Keralan Odyssey: Rediscovering love in Kochi

Keralan Odyssey: Lost in the streets of Mattancherry, Kochi

Keralan Odyssey: Sleepless in Kozhikode, Kappad Beach

Keralan Odyssey: Valediction from Wayanad